Hi everyone,
I'm sorry it has been so long since we posted - although we have had the opportunity to stay at several trail angel's houses, internet access has been somewhat limited since Big Bear.
Over the last couple of weeks, Evan and I have experienced more snow, and spent the last two days in the Mojave Desert. Coming out of Big Bear, the next stop were some natural hot springs. We arrived there the morning after a long day and enjoyed a good soak. It was the beginning of Memorial Day weekend, so there were tons of people there, and less clothes. We spent an hour or two jumping into the cold creek and back into the hot springs before pushing on a few more miles.
A day and a half after the hot springs came the famous "Cajon Pass" - a dreamland of McDonald's, Del Taco and Subway. Hikers had talked about Big Mac's and fries since our starting point in Campo. We got there on Memorial Day morning, starving and I was a little dissapointed that there were almost no wheat-free options. Evan put down several sausage mcmuffins and I enjoyed a morning mcflurry. It had been heating up for a few days and, after a little discussion, we decided to stay a night at the Best Western, which offered a hiker rate. Unfortunately the washing machine was broken, so we washed everything in the bathtub and dried it. A wonderful day of showers, air conditioning and tv. Ahh.
From Cajon Pass, we began the first of two detours due to fire and endangered species (some special frog). The first detour followed a few jeep roads, which are much more steep than the trail normally is. After the jeep roads, it merged onto a paved road which it followed for several miles into a shooting range and back up a jeep road to finally meet the official trail again. Unfortunately, walking on pavement is not only boring, it can really take a toll on your body. Evan's achilles tendon started to bother him there, and it still acts up from time to time.
After getting back on the trail, we climbed up and up into the pines again. My favorite sections of the trail so far have been after a big climb - leaving the desert behind you round a corner and suddenly there it is: the scent of pines and thinner air. The next afternoon we reached Inspiration Point, where we caught a ride into Wrightwood. Such a hiker-friendly town! We re-supplied at the grocery store and spent a few hours talking with other hikers at the local coffee shop (free coffee for thru-hikers!). That evening we got back on the trail and camped at the summit trailhead for Mt. Baden-Powell. Early in the morning we climbed the steep switchbacks, which gave way to steep snow. We reached the summit at 12pm and enjoyed the views - mountains on one side and desert on the other. At a little over 9,000 feet this is the highest we have climbed so far (although that will change once we reach Mt. Whitney in a few weeks).
Leaving the summit, we learned an important lesson: never leave the ridge line. Following footprints when the trail was snow-covered, we made the mistake of descending onto the north face, which forced us to spend several hours bushwacking acrost snow and scree shoots until we reached what we thought was Islip Saddle. From that point, we followed a trail only to discover that this was in fact Dawson's Saddle (not on our map) - a boyscouts trail rather than the PCT. Oy Vey. Once we reached a road crossing we got a ride back into Wrightwood, where we enjoyed a good nights sleep and a smoothie for breakfast from a local trail angel.
The section from Islip Saddle into Agua Dulce has also been re-routed (approx. 50 miles of jeep roads and highways). Since Evan's ankle is still sore and since we didn't want to be hit by a car, we decided to skip that section and were offered a ride to Agua Dulce in a fellow thru-hiker's RV. In Agua Dulce, we stayed at Hiker Heaven - where Jeff and Donna Saufley put up 50 hikers at a time on cots in their yard. It was amazing. 24 miles from there Teri and Joe Anderson house hikers in their endless Narnia-inspired backyard. 40 miles from there is Hikertown - a somewhat eerie hiker hostel composed of recycled hollywood sets and wind. We picked up our tent (finally a house on the trail!), Evan's new pack and a set of fiddle strings there, before trucking the next 40 miles along the CA Aqueduct and through the Mojave to our current location: Tehachapi, CA. We really lucked out with the wind and lower temperatures for what is otherwise an unbearably hot section of trail. Here in town we are going to rest for a couple of days, heal up Evan's achilles tendon and pray that the snow in the Sierras melt. From here it is 150 miles to Kennedy Meadows, and another 200 snow-covered miles from there to another town.
We miss you all! Think good thoughts for the Sierras!